During the Proto48 Meeting at this year’s Chicago show, the topic of the blackened wheel treads came up. I was very surprised by how much talk there was about them and how passionate some of the folks were. It never dawned on me that some folks think it’s difficult to polish the wheel treads.
The above image shows a pair of Yoder PRR 2D-F8 50 Ton trucks straight out of the box about to find a home under an Atlas X29. Notice the blackened wheel treads.
I use a small my Dremel with a Rubber Polishing Wheel 320 Xtra Fine grit Silicon carbide. They come 100 in the bag for about $20. I think I found them on ebay a couple of years ago. Since then I may have used a half dozen of the 100 wheels. When they wear down or get a grove in them I just put on a fresh wheel.
I hold the truck in my hand and work the polishing wheel around the wheel. They can get hot so you have to work out a sequence to be able to continue to hold the truck. After about five minutes work, the wheels are polished.
What’s all the fuss? They talked about this issue longer then it takes to polish the treads on a pair of trucks.
BTW, this also works on loose wheelsets. Just polish the treads before you assemble a truck.
All done, now back to putting these under the X29.
It’s funny how sometimes the simplest of things will lead you down a rabbit hole. I am continuing to clean the train room and put stuff away. I noticed an Intermountain truck I had assembled with San Juan plastic Proto48 wheelsets sitting in it. They fit perfectly and roll great. But they are plastic wheel sets so you can’t polish the wheel surface and plastic wheels tend to pick up a lot of dirt.
Having that truck in my hand and a having a clean workbench, led to pulling out a Protocraft wheelset to look at. Which led to measuring the wheelsets and then the next thing you know out comes the wheel puller and more mearuring to see if the wheels could be placed on the San Juan axels. Nope, they would need to be machined to fit properly, not a quick solution.
This led to thinking about adding a point to the ends of the Protocraft axels. Which meant the Shereline lathe came out onto the workbench. Which led to the question, how can I hold that tiny axel in the lathe?
I looked at trying to hold Protocraft axel in the chuck. Not the best of ideas because of all the erregular surfaces of the protocraft axel. Might have worked with a straight axle. Which led to should I make new axels? No, this is meant to be a simple solution. Which lead to finding my collets…. which lead to a whole other search. Turned out the collets were where they should be and I just looked right past them. That really wasn’t the best way (for my set up) to hold them either. Which led to thinking about a set up I’ve used to polish wheel treads using the chuck and a steady rest.
Now before the machinists in the crowd start rolling their eyes, I should remind you that I did not take metal shop in High School, I took art classes. And as a machinist, I turned out to be a good Graphic Designer.
Well it worked, but putting the wheels back on the axel turned out to be more to think about. They were is perfect gauge from the manufacturer and when the day started. A simpler solution was needed.
As you can see I found a simpler solution, leave the wheels mounted on the axels. The axel is held by the chuck, supported on the other end by the steady rest. The wheel treads get polished and a file is used to add the point on the axel.
Here is the before and after of the Protocraft axels. They now drop into the Intermountain truck and it rolls great.
I tried cutting the point but that put forces on the axel in this set up which caused it to move. If I had used a collet and just held the axel then that would have worked. But I didn’t need close tolerances on the point, I just needed a point on the end of the axel.
I also want to mention that I said in the last post that the workbench would not stay as clean as it was. It didn’t.
That worked so well, I built up ten pairs of trucks.
The imported trucks from Protocraft and RY Models are GREAT! I own more pairs of them than I want to admit. Sometimes, you just don’t want to put a $52 pair of trucks under a $20 freight car.
Putting away one Intermountain truck with San Juan plastic wheels led to this. But notice, I was good about putting away the lathe and I’m back to a clean workbench.
Now, what cars do I want to put these trucks under…..
Description:
With the release of the USRA 70 Ton Triples from RY Models, Rich also introduced a new Proto48/O Scale truck. The Keystone 70-ton pedestal-type side frames truck, which was built by American Steel Foundries (A.S.F.). They appear in photographs of the of The USRA cars throughout most of their lives.
The new truck was produced in Proto48 and O Scale and is available on the new USRA 70 ton cars and as a seperate item. The trucks are available from RY Models for $42.00 per pair. http://www.richyodermodels.com/rym-o-scale-trucks.htm
I received these trucks under my hopper cars and also purchased a couple of pairs to go under a pair of cars I have been kit-bashing from the IM USRA Twins which will rerepresent the spot-repaired cars the NYC rostered later in their service lives.
NYC 915709 – photo from RY Models Website
The photo shows an NYC triple after being rebuilt with a center saw-tooth hopper and you can clearly see the Keystone Truck under the car. The website also shows them under C&O, P&LE, PMcK&Y and Virginian hoppers.
NMRA Proto48 Specification:
I measured the trucks and find that they are within NMRA spec. Here are the measurements and I’ve added their measurements to the NMRA S-4.1 Proto48 Wheel Standards
Check Gauge
Back to Back
Wheel Width
Flange Width
Flange Depth
Specification Range
1.124
1.134
1.100
1.112
0.115
0.120
0.024
0.028
0.022
0.026
RY Models 70 ton Keystone truck
double insulated axles
1.132
1.104
0.115
0.026
0.023
Plus and Minus… Opinions:
On the plus-side: The trucks measured up fine against the NMRA Specification and the track fine under the cars. The trucks do look very nice, they capture the look of the prototype based on the photo I’ve seen.
On the minus-side: They do look slightly compressed (width wise) at the spring area, the photos show a wider three spring front face, as typical with 70 ton trucks of the time. The model has the center spring slightly recessed, almost like the difference between a 70-ton and a 50-ton truck.
Another issue with most RY Models trucks is that they do not have any casting information on the side frames. You know, the cool looking letters on the side frames that in O scale you can actually read. But being able to read them is part of the problem also, what should it say? I know Rich has wanted to model this information in the past and has reached out to a number of freight car experts seeking out this information with varied success. I know first-hand that rather than guess or put the wrong information there he has chosen to not include it.
Overall: The minuses have not held me back from purchasing these trucks. I look forward to their use under my hopper cars for many years to come.
I’m very glad to see a new freight car truck on the Proto48/O scale market.
